Monday, 25 July 2011

The Keg

Have you ever wondered who the guy was who first ate a lobster?  (And yes, we know it was a guy.  Only men, dared and double-dog-dared by other men, will consume things that a starving coyote wouldn’t touch.)

Think about it.

You have an entire ocean of tender, easily caught fish to choose from, but instead you watch a gray, spiny insect (with eye-stalks and everything) crawl out onto the beach.  And what is the first thought that comes to your mind after you finish recoiling in horror?
 
“Hmm.  I wonder what that tastes like with butter.”

Whoever he was (drunk on meade or ale or whatever it was they were drinking back then), let us give him thanks.  And let us also thank the person who finally suggested cooking the critters before eating them.  Without those pioneers, our anniversary dinner at The Keg the other day would have been a lot less surf and a lot more turf.

Calgary goes through food fads, most of them familiar to anyone who lives in a large-ish city.  These fads usually begin in funkier locales like Seattle or New York and then make their way through the rest of North America.  We’ve been through a bagel knoshery phase and a Krispy Kream (i.e. glazed orgasms) phase. We endured an explosion of martini bars, we’re finally at the tail-end of a cupcake craze, and there are still plenty of places where squishing your ice cream together with a few gummy bears on a marble countertop warrants doubling the price.  These trends are all marked by turning a relatively ordinary culinary object into an overrated, overpriced, and ultimately, overexposed fad.  And we all know who first started this nonsense.  Yes, Starbucks, I’m looking at you.

So, now that Calgary is in full-swing “enjoying” a steakhouse (sorry, chophouse) fad, I’m happy to have a reasonable alternative to $50 steaks.  (I’ve met whole cows that weren’t worth that much.)  I’m even happier when I just so happen to eat there the one time of year when just about every meal comes with lobster.

The Keg is technically a “chain restaurant” but it has only a handful of locations outside of Canada.  There are three locations in Calgary, the downtown restaurant having been around for about 30 years, and two in Banff that I have been to.  It’s a bit odd that there is more than one Keg in a small townsite like Banff.  They are literally close enough that you could order an appetizer at one location and simultaneously order an entrée at the other; you can eat your appetizer, pay your bill, and walk over to the other restaurant before your main course even hits the table.

Anyway, I know what you are thinking: franchised steakhouses are infamous for cuts of meat that are barely thicker than the floormats of your car and even less tender.  They can be flavourful (if you make generous use of the A-1 sauce at your table and the two next to it), but biting into a live chipmunk produces less squeaking than the sound of your teeth grinding into the gristle of a Sizzler special.

This is not so with The Keg.

Usually, when we eat there, I order the blue cheese encrusted filet.  Steaks don’t come any tenderer and only The Keg’s “Baseball Sirloin” comes any thicker.  The quarter-inch layer of blue cheese yumminess (Yes, I said yumminess.  You try coming up with an appetizing synonym for “encrusted”.)  is a nice alternative to ruining your meal with steak sauce.

I say usually, because as I mentioned before, The Keg was taking advantage of lobster season and was offering a whole menu of crustacean-laden (ooh, nice turn of phrase!) specials.  Alison had a sirloin topped with prawns, scallops, and lobster (naturally).  I’ve had it before, and it’s very good, if a bit light on the lobster.

I ordered what can best be described as the dinner theatre production of Alien Autopsy.  Somehow I thought if I had a steak and a half-lobster, I would get the best half.  You know, the tail half.  But no, what arrived on my plate was the 3D equivalent of a diagram right out of a marine biology textbook.  With CSI-like precision, the kitchen had managed to perfectly saw the lobster in half length-wise, giving me Sebastian’s entire right side to dissect (sorry, Ariel).

It was good, but I don’t think I’d order it again.  It was a lot of effort for relatively little lobster meat.  (I enjoy playing with my food, but when I imagine wrestling while covered in melted butter, believe me, a lobster is not who I picture as my opponent.)  Also, the steak was okay but not their finest cut.

Fortunately, a slightly disappointing entrée was book-ended by two excellent courses: escargot with mushroom caps for the appetizer and key-lime pie for dessert.  Alison and I revert to kindergarteners whenever we have The Keg’s escargot, carefully counting how many the other has eaten and jealously guarding the pools of garlic butter left behind to sop up with bread.

                “Was that your third escargot?”

                “No, that was only my second.”

                “Are you sure?  I’ve only got one left!”

                “Yes, I’m sure.  What?  Do you need me to take a urine test to prove it?”

                “Well, I did bring a cup with me…”

The conversation for the rest of the meal was more mature.  Alison later asked:

                “Are we sure about this?”

The meal was nearly done, so she couldn’t be referring to our choice of restaurant.  Ah, but it was our anniversary as well…

                “After 19 years, isn’t it kind of late to back out now?”  I asked.

                “No, it isn’t too late.” (ouch) “But that’s not what I’m talking about.  Are
                  we sure about the drums?”

Oh yeah, the drums.

Our oldest son isn’t so much a person in our house as he is a sound.  We won’t see him for hours but we can hear his presence.  He has decided to teach himself the guitar, and in all fairness, he is getting pretty good.  But the same guitar riffs played over and over (I know, that’s what practice is all about) get old sometimes.  I heard somewhere that, while growing up in Nijmegen, even little Eddie Van Halen’s parents would send him into the Black Forest to practice, just so they could have a few moments of peace.  I’m also pretty sure that’s where he first met Valerie Bertinelli.


So, there are ways to reduce the sonic assault of an electric guitar.  Headphones work well in place of a guitar amp (thank you, iRig and iPhone!), and when things get really bad, we can also banish Will to my soundproofed studio.  (Sadly, there is no Black Forest in Calgary.)

But our second son, Duncan, isn’t interested in guitar.  Nor piano.  Nor anything that can fit easily into my studio.  Duncan wants to play the drums.  An instrument that can only be played loud.  (The one time I sympathized with the Grinch in the Dr. Suess tale was when all those bloody Whoville brats started playing their obnoxious, eardrum shattering instruments.  “The noise! The noise!  The NOISE!” he cried.  I can totally understand why he tied them all to his sleigh and pushed it off the mountain.  What?  He didn’t do that?  Well, he should have.)

But, before we invest in buying a complete set only to watch them turn into a very expensive battlefield for his action figures, we are renting a drum kit for two months to see if Duncan is serious about it.  I have visions of our 9-year-old pounding furiously on the toms while hollering “Woman! Woman!” like a certain Muppet he often resembles.

So, no, we’re not sure about the drums.

Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, we shared a slice (actually, it was more like a “slab”) of key lime pie for dessert.  This was not your typical Jello-and-Cool Whip concoction.  This was the heavy, rich variety with a consistency that approached baked cheesecake.  We didn’t really have room for it, but for key lime pie, we were going to make the effort.  It hurt so-o-o-o good.  Even better, because we let slip it was our anniversary, the pie was on the house.

Groaning, we left the restaurant, and I thought back to my anatomy lesson during dinner.  Having no ears, I bet lobsters don’t even care if their sons take up the drums.

Lucky bastards.


Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Big T's BBQ & Smokehouse

Here’s an interesting number: 10,400.  That is the number of calories, according to my teammate Steve’s very fancy watch, each of us burned on the Ride to Conquer Cancer.  (In winter, when I am in full hibernation mode, it usually takes me three weeks to burn that much.)  This meant that my metabolism was fired up to the point that food would literally vaporize before it even passed my tonsils.  This also meant that immediately following the big ride, I could eat obscene quantities of anything I wanted.  Yes, this was a job for southern barbeque.  And in Calgary, southern barbeque is Big T’s BBQ and Smokehouse.

There is a litmus test that all restaurants claiming to serve good southern cooking must pass:  they must deep-fry at least one weird thing.  Not too weird, mind you.  Not Calgary Stampede weird where they started deep-frying Snickers and jellybeans a few years ago but will now deep-fry anything from small children to home appliances.  (Not brand new appliances; we’re not barbarians!)  But any self-respecting southern BBQ joint should deep-fry something that probably started off as a dare.

Big T’s does pass the deep fryer test.  One of their specialties is deep-fried (you know, I think just used the phrase “deep-fried” enough to make me an honorary Louisianan.  Three more times and I’ll be bestowed with the title of “Bubba” and all the perks that come with it!).  Anyway, Big T’s has deep-fried pickles.  Dill pickles, of course, because deep-fried gherkins is just crazy-talk.  These are always a big hit with Alison, and she reluctantly shared them with the rest of the table.  They are served in a paper cone atop an iron spire with a cool “ranchy” dip on the side.  I love them too, with one caveat: the breading loses heat much faster than the encased cuke, deceiving you into believing (erroneously) that the pickle has cooled below the temperature of napalm and is ready to eat.  Fortunately, the skin inside my mouth grows back quickly.

The atmosphere of Big T’s is a big part of its appeal.  It has a bit of a roadhouse vibe…well, as much as a restaurant located in a strip mall can have any vibe that isn’t created by the stomping feet of twenty people trying to drop 30 pounds at the step class two storefronts down.  The wood-lined walls are decorated with jazz, blues, and Motown record covers; and the kitchen is open for all patrons to see and drool over.  The ambiance was enhanced at our table by the friends we were dining with, particularly Karen, an actual Southerner with a Deliverance-style accent and everything.  Alison has known her longer than she’s known me, and Karen is quite possibly one of the bravest people I know.  Not because she is fighting MS (which she is).  And not because she recently toured the Middle East (which she did).  No, Karen is the bravest person I know because I’ve watched her scream at complete strangers in New Orleans.  Alison and I visited her a number of years ago when she was living in the Big Easy, and Karen did most of the driving.  The other drivers she shared (I use the term loosely) the road with were a constant source of extreme irritation for Karen, and she would let them know in no uncertain terms, questioning the marital status of the parents of anyone who merged incorrectly and calling on Jesus to strike down those who didn’t have their exact change at the ready when approaching a toll bridge booth.

Don’t get me wrong.  We love Karen, and her pedigree allowed her to order hush puppies like a real pro, giving our meal extra authenticity.  (It also didn’t hurt that she and Heery paid for dinner.  Thanks!)

Speaking of hush puppies, if you don’t know what they are, hush puppies are round pieces of deep-fried (“Bubba!”) cornbread served with maple syrup for dipping.  An angioplasty can be added for a nominal fee.  The hush puppies are the source of one of my few issues with Big T’s.  No, they prepare them perfectly, so that isn’t my complaint.  It’s that every meal comes with a non-negotiable side of cornbread, and then you get to choose from additional sides (one of which is hush puppies).  Even considering my new title of “Bubba”, that’s a lot of corn in bread form.  C’mon, Big T’s, let’s make the first side a choice of cornbread or hush puppies!  Just saying.

My other concern is slightly more serious.  Big T’s naturally serves breaded catfish (an animal that has been beaten mercilessly with the ugly stick, but is a southern staple), but this they do prepare wrong.  It isn’t entirely fair to Big T’s to say this, because I’m comparing their preparation method to Dan Akroyd’s House of Blues.  My first encounter with catfish as a food (instead of a freakshow at the aquarium) was at the House of Blues in New Orleans, and they breaded it in cornmeal.  Big T’s uses a flour-based breading.  I know! What’s wrong with these people?   What’s next, pulled pork served in a pita pocket??

These are actually very minor complaints, and they were completely erased by the full rack of ribs I ordered.  If you ever find yourself at Big T’s, you must have the Carolina Mustard ribs.  (I’m having a Pavlovian reaction even as I write this.)  I’m a big fan of dark reddish-brown barbeque sauces on my ribs (hell, on my anything), but this mustard yellow sauce beats them all.  The rack was enormous, extending beyond both sides of my plate like the love-handles of an American tourist in a beach lounger, but due to my super-charged metabolism, I demolished them in about 7 minutes and didn’t feel a thing.  Only a critical glance from Alison stopped me from ordering another round.  Fortunately, Will was running out of steam, so I helped him finish his ribs, and I stole a hush puppy from Duncan.  Will had chosen the spicy ribs, and they were also excellent with some real burn that increased with each bite.

We finished our meal by sharing a Wild Turkey Pie (think pecan pie with chocolate…giddy up!), and when I say share, I mean I devoured half of it before everyone’s glares finally broke me down. 

Hey, I still had at least another 6000 calories to recover!